Tragedy on the Peaks: Nepal Mourns Nirmal Purja After Broad Peak Avalanche

Sun Sep 06 2026 02:38:41 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time)

An avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak leaves Nepal in mourning after the death of 10‑member expedition, including celebrated climber Nirmal Purja.

An unexpected avalanche on Broad Peak claimed all ten members of a multinational expedition on Thursday, including famed British‑Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja. Tributes poured in from Nepal’s Prime Minister to Purja’s peers, classmates and the international climbing community. The incident also spotlighted the broader tragedy of a summit operation that lost six Nepalis and four foreign climbers. Purja’s legacy of historic speed ascents, military service and media exposure remains a pillar for Nepal’s guiding community, while the associated allegations and later investigations add a complex layer to his enduring story.

The 2026 disaster that unfolded on Pakistan’s 8,047 meter (26,400‑foot) Broad Peak has rippled across the global mountaineering world and Nepal’s heart. An avalanche claimed the lives of all ten members of a multinational expedition on Thursday, including the prominent British‑Nepali climber Nirmal Purja, more widely known as “Nims”. Six of the deceased were Nepalese, while the remaining four were Americans, Chinese, Omani and Pakistani climbers.

Nirmal Purja had already attracted worldwide attention for his record‑breaking 14‑summit run in June 2025 where he climbed the world’s tallest peaks in just 6 months, a feat documented in a popular 2021 Netflix documentary. Although he spent most of his life in the UK, Purja’s one‑hundred‑plus hours of mountaineering had helped shine a spotlight on Nepali guides, boosting their visibility and earning him a revered place in Nepal’s climbing culture.

The avalanche sent shockwaves in Kathmandu, as the nation’s leaders, guides, students and citizens expressed grief and a promise that Purja’s legacy will endure. Prime Minister Balendra Shah posted a heartfelt tribute, echoing the sentiment that Purja’s “history of courage, dedication and contribution will always remain inspiring.”

Purja’s younger brother, Kamal, shared his sorrow on Facebook, writing “I feel as though I have lost my whole world. My brother was not only my younger brother – he was my heart.” He added that while their hearts are broken, “Your legacy will live forever.”

Students and staff of the Small Heaven School in Chitwan district, where Purja studied, lit candles to honor the deceased. One student, Sarbagya Paudel, said that “Purja’s bravery has set a great example for our school. Not only has he made our school proud, but he has also brought pride to Nepal.” Former teacher Shailendra Baral recalled the young climber as “fearless and committed to achieving something,” while friend Bahadur Panta described how he and others prayed for Purja during the investigation.

Purja’s mountaineering and military career remains distinguished, with 16 years in the British armed forces, ten of those with the Special Forces. He was honored with an MBE in 2018 for his extreme high‑altitude achievements and was the first Gurkha to reach the summit of Everest while serving in the UK. Nonetheless, later allegations surfaced – in 2024, two women claimed sexual misconduct in 2022 and 2023 during expeditions and hotel stays. Purja denied these claims through legal representation.

The disaster also included other notable climbers: Pur Bahadur Gurung, known as “Yukta”, who had summited Everest ten times; Kili Pemba Sherpa, part of a 2021 K2 winter expedition; and regional guides who praised their peers’ humility and leadership.

Beyond personal grief, the tragedy spotlights the fragile balance of risk that climbers confront on the world’s tallest peaks. Broad Peak, whose first successful ascent happened in 1957, remains perilous, with dozens of deaths recorded over its treacherous slopes.