In brief
In a surprising turn, Turkey has withdrawn its request to the European Union for a 'Traditional Specialty Guaranteed' label on doner kebabs, which would have mandated specific ingredients and preparation methods that could have significantly impacted the German kebab industry. The attempt faced backlash from Germany, where the kebab has evolved into a popular dish distinct from its Turkish origins.
A Turkish attempt to force kebab shops in the EU to adhere to strict rules on how to make a doner kebab has been withdrawn.
If the bid for a 'Traditional Speciality Guaranteed' label had succeeded, restrictions would have been imposed on the types of ingredients that could be used.
Germany's kebab industry would have been particularly skewered, as the quintessential high street doner has evolved over the decades to be rather different than the original from Turkey.
Turkish authorities argued the doner should be viewed as a national dish that spread to Europe through the migration of Turks. But German officials stated its version of the kebab has become part of its own national cuisine.
The traditional method of cooking meat on a vertical rotisserie dates back to the 16th Century, according to Turkey's International Doner Federation (Udofed), and the name 'doner' relates to that cooking technique.
They proposed EU regulations that would require meat to come from beef older than 16 months or lamb older than six months, while prohibiting veal and turkey meat. The meat would need to be sliced to a specific thickness, and strict guidelines for marinades and knife types would also apply.
Germany's iteration often includes veal wrapped in bread with vegetables, making it distinct from the traditional Turkish kebab.
The proposal did not involve consultation with Germany's kebab industry, which faced strong opposition backed by the Berlin government. The German food ministry expressed astonishment at Turkey's bid and emphasized that the doner is a part of Germany's culinary identity.
Former food minister Cem Özdemir, of Turkish descent, stated that it was up to Germans to choose how to enjoy their doner, dismissing Ankara's push for regulatory oversight. The doner belongs to Germany, he stated.
Had Udofed's proposal succeeded, it could have dramatically affected the kebab industry, which employs around 60,000 people in Germany and generates over €2.4 billion in annual sales.
On September 23, the Turkish federation withdrew its application after receiving considerable objections, with an EU official suggesting the bid was likely to be rejected regardless.
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