In July 2023, Anastasia Samsonova, a 33-year-old human resources professional from Russia, embarked on a remarkable trip to North Korea’s Wonsan Kalma Coastal Tourist Zone, a new beach resort that opened on the country's eastern coast. This exclusive area, often likened to Spain's tourist hub Benidorm, was notably surrounded by a heavy security presence, signaling to visitors that this was a far from ordinary vacation destination.
Anastasia was part of a select group of Russian tourists, as North Korea’s borders remain tightly controlled following the COVID-19 pandemic. The Wonsan Kalma resort, featuring hotels, dining options, a shopping complex, and a water park, is a project linked to leader Kim Jong Un's aspirations to bolster the country’s tourism sector. However, current access remains limited as only organised Russian tours are currently permitted.
Her visit was meticulously planned, with guides and armed guards accompanying the tourists to ensure no unsanctioned interactions with locals occurred. Anastasia noted the surprise of North Korean citizens as they navigated the streets, revealing the isolation the nation has maintained from the outside world.
While the experience was filled with restrictions, Anastasia found enjoyment in the near-private atmosphere of the resort and its immaculate sandy beaches. "It really was a very good beach," she remarked, despite management's requests for tourists to avoid revealing clothing and photography of construction areas.
On their daily schedule, the group enjoyed meals featuring local dishes often complemented by budget-friendly beverages while shopping for North Korean Olympic merchandise. Despite the idyllic setting, controversial discussions swirled around the project, with human rights advocates expressing concerns over the treatment of workers involved in building the facilities.
The overall travel experience for Russians to North Korea has gained traction but still faces uncertainties, especially for tourists wanting to revisit the Wonsan Kalma resort. Planned tours in the coming months could potentially provide further insight into how foreign visitors are treated in one of the world’s most secretive nations.
Despite the restrictions, Anastasia expressed a desire to return next year, indicating a curiosity about a ski resort near the coastal area. Her reflections reveal a mix of fascination and concern amid the complexities of tourism in North Korea.
