Kolhapur Artisans Challenge Prada Over Alleged Design Plagiarism

Sat Oct 18 2025 07:12:46 GMT+0300 (Eastern European Summer Time)

Local craftsmen from Kolhapur, India, are raising voices against luxury brand Prada for using Kolhapuri sandal designs without proper attribution, igniting discussions on cultural appropriation and artisan rights.

Artisans from Kolhapur, a historic center for traditional leather sandal craftsmanship, are protesting against Prada's new footwear line that closely resembles their iconic sandals. With a rich heritage dating back to the 12th century, these local artisans seek recognition and fair compensation amidst feelings of cultural appropriation. The controversy has sparked political support and calls for better institutional protections for traditional crafts.

In a dramatic twist, the artisans of Kolhapur, a town renowned for its traditional leather sandals, have found themselves at the center of a fierce cultural debate following Italian luxury brand Prada's alleged plagiarism of their designs. Local manufacturers are voicing their frustrations after discovering that Prada's recent footwear, showcased at Milan Fashion Week, closely mirrors their handcrafted sandals without any acknowledgment or compensation.

Sadashiv Sanake, a dedicated shoemaker with nearly six decades of experience, labors by hand to produce only eight to ten pairs of sandals each day, which are sold at modest prices. Given the industry-level challenges, including reduced artisan numbers and low wages, many are feeling the impact of competing against mechanized production.

The uproar grew as social media flooded with accusations against Prada, prompting the brand to acknowledge the origins of the design after backlash. The ancient Kolhapuri sandals, which are traced back to the 12th century, serve both as cultural symbols and sources of livelihood for around 5,000 artisans, yet they operate under tough conditions.

Local stakeholders—including politicians and cultural organizations—have rallied behind artisans to advocate for improved recognition and rights associated with their craft. With prices for luxury items dramatically inflating in global markets, many artisans express bewilderment at the thought of their traditional craft being commercialized to such high ends.

Industry reports detail how the craft, historically associated with marginalized communities such as the Charmakar, has evolved and flourished through royal endorsements, yet still suffers from the aftereffects of modernization, discrimination, and rising material costs. The leather traditionally used in Kolhapuri sandals became more expensive following bans on cow slaughter, using alternative sources that drive costs up for artisans.

While Kolhapuri designs now hold a Geographical Indication mark in India protecting their name and craft within the country, artisan advocates argue that international protections remain inadequate, permitting brands to exploit these designs without repercussions.

As the controversy continues to unfold, legal actions have emerged seeking compensation from Prada and advocating for collaborative efforts with local artisans. Despite the challenges, some see potential upside; heightened interest in Kolhapuri sandals has already begun to bring newfound attention and demand for the artisans' work, leading to discussions about ethical recognition and a fair sharing of profits.

With the future of Kolhapuri craft hanging in the balance, the ongoing dialogue surrounding cultural appropriation, rights, and recognition may foster long-term change for displaced and struggling artisans in the region.