In brief
Wigs, once considered a niche accessory, are experiencing a renaissance in India, thanks to a blend of changing attitudes and innovative technology that caters to diverse consumer needs.
Zeeshan Ali, a Mumbai-based drag artist, has made a name for himself over the past decade, thanks in part to his vast collection of around 45 wigs. "Each wig is an altar of identity for me," he explains, highlighting how it helps transform his persona on stage. However, he recalls a time when sourcing wigs in India was far more challenging, often requiring him to create wigs from wool and fabric due to limited local availability.Today, the landscape has shifted notably. Wigs are no longer solely associated with drag performers or actors; many women are adopting them as fashionable style statements. The increasing demand for wigs has made India a pivotal player in the global hair market, as it exports 85% of the world's human hair.Kolachi Venkatesh, a veteran hair collector based in Chennai, notes that while the material has immense value—"It’s just thrown away, but it's gold"—those who collect the hair often struggle financially. Pickers earn between 10 cents to $1 per kilogram depending on hair quality, resulting in below-minimum wage incomes. Venkatesh, overseeing 50 pickers, asserts that while their hard work feeds into a multi-billion-dollar market, the profits remain concentrated among middlemen.As most Indian hair is exported to China, the country boasts a booming wig-making industry valued between five to six billion dollars. Benjamin Cherian from Plexconcil emphasizes the necessity for India to develop its own high-value production capabilities rather than just exporting raw hair. He advocates for government support in enhancing investment and technology for the hair industry.Innovative strides are being made by companies like Delhi's Diva Divine Hair, co-founded by Nidhi Tiwari. Since 2009, they have focused on producing top-notch extensions and wigs to serve an expanding customer base, particularly addressing hair loss and thinning concerns among women. Tiwari observes that conversations about wigs have become more open, and improved technologies—ranging from 3D-printed wigs to color-matching tools—enhance user comfort and attractiveness.The demand for high-quality hair remains acute. Remy hair, often sourced from Hindu temples, represents a premium segment, characterized by its uniformity and softness. Companies like Raj Hair International are at the forefront, utilizing advanced machinery for larger and less wasteful production, with the aim of maintaining high standards for their products.In the backdrop, Zeeshan Ali advocates for a more competitive local wig market, calling for innovative designs that can create a visual spectacle. As attitudes toward wigs shift, the potential for a vibrant industry in India appears brighter than ever.
