In the picturesque region of Reims, France, a trial has shed light on a disturbing underbelly of the champagne industry, as three individuals stand accused of trafficking and exploiting seasonal workers. The defendants—a woman from Kyrgyzstan, a man from Georgia, and a French national—are alleged to have taken advantage of over 50 undocumented migrant workers primarily hailing from West African countries.
During the September 2023 grape harvest, the workers were discovered in deplorable housing conditions in Nesle-le-Repons, southwest of Reims. They had been recruited through a recruitment ad circulated via a WhatsApp group targeting the Soninke ethnic community in Paris, luring them with promises of lucrative work opportunities.
The group comprised mostly men aged 16 to 65, with origins in countries like Mali, Mauritania, Ivory Coast, and Senegal. Some of the affected workers shared their harrowing experiences, with Kanouitié Djakariayou, 44, describing the unsanitary living conditions and inadequate food supply. "I never thought the people who made champagne would put us up in a place which even animals would not accept," he lamented.
Local authorities were alerted about the workers' plight, leading to labor inspectors documenting a series of safety and health violations. Prosecutor Annick Browne noted the dire state of living spaces, bath facilities, and inappropriate food provisions, while the working arrangements were equally troubling: laborers worked ten-hour shifts with just half an hour for lunch, transported precariously in truck beds with no formal contracts.
Maxime Cessieux, the attorney representing the victims, emphasized that the accused exhibited a blatant disregard for human dignity. The 44-year-old female suspect, identified as Svetlana G., operated a recruitment agency named Anavim, which was involved in the hiring of labor for the champagne sector.
In addition to human trafficking charges, Svetlana is also accused of employing foreign workers unlawfully and providing them with unsafe living conditions. If convicted, all three could face up to seven years in prison alongside hefty fines.
This trial raises poignant questions about the extent of labor exploitation in France's €6 billion champagne industry, which relies heavily on about 120,000 seasonal workers each year. Historical precedents reveal troubling incidents, including the deaths of six grape pickers reportedly from heatstroke during recent harvest seasons.
Trade unions have called attention to how some champagne producers often use middlemen, effectively evading direct accountability for labor practices. Jose Blanco from the CGT union emphasized that the misery of workers should never be part of the champagne production process.
In response to these serious allegations, the Comité Champagne—representing champagne producers—asserted that incidents of mistreatment are infrequent and addressed promptly when discovered. Nonetheless, they are participating in the trial as civil plaintiffs, acknowledging the harm inflicted on the prestigious brand by these intolerable practices.