In brief
As the demand for wigs rises in India, drag performer Zeeshan Ali discusses his love for wigs and the industry's potential. With a growing market, the country aims to improve value addition and production techniques to compete globally.
In the vibrant world of drag, wigs play a crucial role in self-expression and performance. Zeeshan Ali, a seasoned drag artist from Mumbai, has amassed a personal collection of around 45 wigs over his decade-long career. "It’s an alter of identity, helping me transition from my everyday self into exaggerated, glamorous or whimsical characters," Ali explains, emphasizing the empowerment and authenticity wigs provide on stage.The journey to obtaining the perfect wig has transformed over the years. "When I started my career the accessibility of the wigs was extremely difficult in India. I had to rely on making them from wool or fabric," Ali recalls. Today, wigs have transcended their traditional roots, appealing not only to drag and movie artists but also becoming a fashion statement among women seeking to change their appearance.India is the world's leading supplier of human hair, accounting for a staggering 85% of global demand. Kolachi Venkatesh, a hair collector from Chennai, has spent two decades in the industry, beginning his journey as a picker of hair from homes and salons. "My parents were hair pickers and then I started doing the same," he says. Venkatesh's collection of non-Remy hair, which is often discarded, transforms perceived waste into valuable resources.Despite this, the income from hair collection remains low. "A diligent collector might gather 1–5 kilograms of hair in a day, earning anywhere from 59 cents to $6 per day, which is often below minimum wage standards,” Venkatesh notes, pointing out the cycle of exploitation in the fragmented supply chain.Most of this hair is exported to China, where it is processed into wigs, creating a $5 to $6 billion industry. Benjamin Cherian from Plexconcil highlights India's challenge in catching up to China's advanced production capabilities. "India must enhance its infrastructure, including automated sorting systems and innovative manufacturing techniques, to fully capitalize on its hair market," he urges.One business endeavoring to bridge this gap is Delhi's Diva Divine Hair, co-founded by Nidhi Tiwari in 2009. Tiwari’s vision was to provide high-quality hair solutions to women experiencing hair loss. Today, wigs are gaining acceptance in society, and advancements in technology are making them more comfortable and appealing, with features like 3D printing and breathable materials.The demand for Indian hair has skyrocketed, especially for high-quality Temple or Remy hair sourced from religious practices. George Cherion from Raj Hair International notes that the unique qualities of Indian hair, including its natural appearance and manageability, make it increasingly sought after globally.As the industry evolves, Zeeshan Ali aspires to see more locally made wigs that not only capture attention but are also more affordable. "A wig that can create a wow factor," he envisions, highlighting the exciting potential of India's wig industry as it moves from simply collecting hair to creating innovative products for diverse markets.
